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Animal Control does not trap wildlife unless it poses a public safety hazard (for example it is stopping traffic or is inside a home.) Animal control will respond to calls of injured, sick or aggressive animals. It is up to you to make arrangements for trapping healthy wildlife on your property.
Before you trap wildlife, read below for reasons why you shouldn't and for alternative ways to deal with specific animals.
Ten reasons NOT to trap and relocate wildlife
- It is not an effective solution. If you remove one animal from your property another will come to take its place.
- You will never succeed in eliminating wildlife from your property as long as you have a source of food or shelter. Fixing holes, capping chimneys, covering trash cans and removing pet food will eliminate wildlife much more effectively.
- Trapping is indiscriminate—you may trap your neighbor’s cat or another animal unrelated to your nuisance problem.
- It’s not fair. Where do we expect wildlife to exist? They are trying to adapt to life with us in their traditional environment, can’t we show a little tolerance?
- It’s illegal in the off season! Although widely ignored, all forms of trapping are legally limited to designated hunting and trapping seasons which are designed to allow mothers to rear young without harassment.
- It is highly stressful to be relocated. Most animals do not survive in unfamiliar territory. Resident animals will drive off the intruderor the animal will not know where to find food and shelter. A recent study shows more than 90% of relocated raccoons die within a short period of time.
- Even Humane Traps can injure animals—or they can injure themselves trying to escape during the hours they are confined to traps.
- Trapping out of fear is unfounded. Healthy wild animals have no interest in attacking you, your pets or your children. Their only reason for aggression is self defense and their first choice is always to escape perceived danger.
- With a little effort we can coexist with wildlife. If they inconvenience you try to remember their only motive is survival. They have no concept of property or damage.
- Finally--When you trap and relocate someone’s mother might not come home! From early spring until late fall the chances are 50/50 that the animal you trap is a mother whose babies depend on her for survival. Taking a mother away condemns the babies to starvation and death.
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Raccoons & Skunks
What they do: These two species certainly perform a service by eating insects and rodents. However, they also eat fresh vegetation from your garden and are fond of picking through trash cans for the best “leftovers” they can find. Raccoons have even been known to fish out of garden ponds, and enter homes through pet doors to munch on pet food. Additionally conflicts may occur when they nest in chimneys, window wells, basements or attics and occasionally they may get into confrontations with dogs and cats.
What you can do:
- Raccoons and skunks are two common carriers of rabies—SO AVOID DIRECT CONTACT. Make sure your pets’ vaccinations are up to date.
- Raccoons and Skunks also carry roundworms so occasionally check your pets stool for the parasite. *This is critical because raccoon roundworm, if contracted by people, can cause permanent brain damage and even death.
- Don’t leave pet food outside.
- Keep a close eye on pet doors—you may need to block them to avoid a home invasion.
- Secure trash can lids with rope, bungee cords or chains. If necessary stake cans to the ground.
- Cap chimneys and plug siding holes after making sure no nests are inside.
- Make sure garden fences are buried 6-8 inches under ground, or attached to a board that is sunk below the surface.
- Use repellents such as Capsaicin (hot sauce) to make plants taste nasty.
- “Milky Spore” is a natural bacteria available at most garden stores that gets rid of grubs in the yard. Raccoons and skunks are attracted to grubs. When raccoons raid gardens they are not eating the plants, they are digging for grubs.
- Protect your pond fish by creating shelters for them. Stack cinderblocks or rocks in the middle of your pond for them to hide around. Dig the center of your pond 18” deeper. When the raccoons start dipping their hands and noses into the pond the fish can swim to this deeper place out of reach. Raccoons cannot dive for fish.
- If a skunk moves in under your deck or patio try this trick. Mix 8 ounces of castor oil, 8 ounces of dish detergent and 1 gallon of water. Spray the area liberally. To see if your skunk is still in residence lightly stuff balled up newspaper into the entry hole. If the paper is pushed out the next day—your skunk is still there.
- Skunks have a limited supply of “ammunition” in their anal glands that they secrete when threatened—so they often warn before discharging. If you are getting too close—the skunk will stamp its feet in a warning gesture. That would be a good time to back off!
Note: If your dog tangles with a skunk, pet stores carry a variety of commercial products to help get you get rid of the smell. Here’s a tested at-home remedy:
* One quart of 3-percent hydrogen peroxide * One Cup Baking Soda * One teaspoon liquid soap
Wearing rubber gloves (and old clothes) mix and apply it to your dog immediately. Comb through his coat and rinse. Peroxide can bleach a dog’s coat (and your towels and clothes) so don’t leave it on too long. Make sure you discard any excess mixture--it can explode if confined under pressure.
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Woodchucks
What they do: Woodchucks are sun loving, so homeowners may see them active in the early morning and late afternoon. The woodchuck is mainly a vegetarian so he can do some destruction to gardens—he also climbs trees to reach berries, and may burrow under decks or sheds. Woodchucks have big teeth but are not a threat to humans or pets unless they are cornered. They do not attack other animals unprovoked. Woodchucks do not fare well when relocated and if a nursing mother is trapped—her babies will be left behind and die.
What you can do:
- Woodchucks are fearful of people, so frequent visits to your garden, and adding an object like a beach ball that will blow in the wind, usually discourages visits.
- Plant a row of beans at the back of your garden—the woodchucks will spend ALL their time munching on those, and leave the less favorable perennials alone.
- Plant flowers that don’t appeal to woodchucks—lobelia, gallardia, daylilies and columbine are good choices.
- Install a fence that extends three to four feet above ground, and a foot below the surface. Wire mesh with openings that are 2 inches by 4 inches usually works best. Since woodchucks don’t like to climb unstable fencing, if you leave the top portion of the wire unattached to fence posts you’ll create a barrier the animals won’t want to breach. Finally, fold the bottom six inches of the undergroundportion outward to discourage persistent diggers.
- Excluding woodchucks from burrows under your buildings should be done after young have been weaned—preferably in late summer.
- The best technique is to place a radio near the burrow entrance—woodchucks hate constant jarring noise.
- You can also partially dig out the entrances to the burrow and clear surrounding vegetation.
- Or place used kitty litter inside burrow entrances.
- Once you think the animal has left—lightly pack the entrance with hay or balled up newspaper—if it remains undisturbed for 3 to 5 days your visitor has likely left.
- To permanently close the burrow (and keep others from taking up residence) excavate around the entrance and bury a 3 foot square section of heavy gauge welded wire one foot deep across the entrance.
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Rabbits, Squirrels, Rats & Mice
What they do: Many homeowners perceive these animals as nuisances. Rabbits eat gardens, squirrels nest in attics and chimneys and raid bird feeders, and rats and mice get through impossibly small holes to take up residence.
What you can do:
- To keep rabbits out, fence in garden areas with “chicken wire” (one-inch mesh). Bury 4-6 inches below ground and extend it 3 feet above ground.
- Protect trees from rabbits with commercial tree tape, or surround the base with wire mesh.
- If you can stand it, hang garlic in mesh bags or puree it, add water and use as a natural spray to deter rabbits in gardens. Commercial deterrents are also available in garden stores or nurseries.
- Make sure no nests are inside, then cap your chimney, block attic entrances and repair loose siding to keep squirrels out.
- Use a squirrel proof bird feeder and “bafflers” available at garden stores and specialty bird shops. (Don’t use hot sauce or squirrel repellents on bird feeders—those can harm the birds.)
- Block holes and fill cracks in the house to exclude rats and mice. Remove food sources by cleaning up spilled food and storing food in glass, meal or plastic containers.
- Plant vegetation that critters don’t like—lavender and sage tend to keep squirrels away. (Check with an area extension office for a full list of non-enticing vegetation.)
- Use live traps to catch rats and mice—then release them far from home.
- Remove brush piles, weed patches, and other debris that provide cover for rabbits and other wildlife from severe weather and predators.
- In winter when green vegetation is scarce, alternative food (alfalfa hay, rabbit food) can be provided to distract rabbits from trees and valuable plants.
- Use frightening devices such as flags and beach balls. You will need to change them frequently because rabbits adapt quickly to these aversives.
- Repellants such as hot sauce for taste, and moth balls for smell, are temporary. Reapply them frequently.
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Bats
What they do: Bats are attracted to warm dark areas to roost. While bats don’t typically cause any real damage—their droppings can be offensive to homeowners, and unfortunately one bat sighting is enough to get most households into an uproar. Bats are however extremely beneficial to the envrironment. One single bat can eat up to 10,000 mosquitos sized insects in one night of hunting. Not only do they protect us from mosquitoes and West Nile Virus, they also eat the insects that damage our gardens and crops.
What you can do:
- The first rule in any bat encounter is to remain calm.
- Keep pets and children away.
- Keep as near to a wall as possible when moving around the room.
- Close interior doors and if possible provide the bat with an exit by opening a window or exterior door.
- Bats can carry rabies so calling Animal Control at 444-7800 for removal is highly advised. If you have any instances where a bat’s saliva might come in contact with you, your children, or your pets, contact the Nebraska Humane Society at 444-7800.
- If you do have to evict the bat yourself leather work gloves should protect you from a bat’s teeth.
- Wearing gloves, gently but firmly pick up the bat and release him outdoors. (Be prepared for the bat to vocalize loudly when you pick him up.)
- Next check common entry points like gaps around air conditioners, chimneys, or openings in interior walls that lead to attics or cellars. (Inspect thoroughly—bats can fit through openings as small as a half inch!)
- The best way to get rid of a bat colony is to let the bats leave and then deny them re-entry. To pinpoint entry points, watch suspect areas before sunset to about 30 minutes after sunset when bats typically leave to feed.
- Attach bird netting or flexible plastic strips above openings on the outside to create a one-way door—the bats can leave but not reenter.
- Make them want to leave by brightly lighting the area day and night.
- Place fans in attics to cool the area below a suitable temperature for bats.
- Once you’re convinced they’re all out, cover all entry points the bats are using but make sure when you evict them there are no young present. For that reason it’s best not to solve any bat colony problems from May through August.
- If you want to continue to enjoy an insect free area provide alternative roosting sites such as bat houses. (*the Little Brown Bat can eat up to 600 mosquitoes per hour!) For more information link to http://www.batcon.org/.
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Deer
What they do: The most common complaint voiced about deer is damage to trees and gardens. The most deadly encounters with deer occur on roadways. Each year in the US some 200 people are killed and more than 25,000 are injured in car deer collisions. The impact on nature is equally tragic, More than 500,000 deer die in these accidents.
What you can do:
To avoid hitting a deer:
- Always watch for wildlife especially at dawn, dusk and the first few hours of darkness.
- In the dark, watch for the reflection of your headlights in a deer’s eyes at the roadside
- Always glance to the side to check for movement. If you see a deer at the roadside do not expect it to remain still—deer often jump out into oncoming traffic.
- If you see one deer there are likely more around, so reduce your speed.
- Be especially cautious during mid-to-late fall.
- If a deer freezes in your headlights try turning your lights off and then on again.
To Keep them off your property:
Fencing
- Perimeter boundary incorporating sturdy wooden, fiberglass, or metal posts
- Extend fencing 1ft below ground and 8-10 feet above ground
- Openings should be no more than 4 inches wide regardless of fencing material
Mesh Netting
- Rolls out over bushes , drapes over trees to protect individual plants
- Rolls back up when not needed
- Most effective when used for short periods during critical growth times (reduces browsing but might not eliminate it)
Landscape Options
- Line boundaries and borders with repellent or resistant plants
- Create a barrier of hedges to reduce the view of the garden
- Trim grass and underbrush and remove fallen fruit promptly
- Deer Repellant plants: Catnip, Chives, Garlic, Honeybush, Lavender, Onion, Sage, Spearmint, thyme, and Yarrow.
- Deer Resistant Flowers and Ground Cover: Black-eyed Susan, Chrysanthemum, Daffodil, Foxglove, Hyacinth, Iceland Poppy, Iris, Lavender, Lily of the Nile, Oriental Poppy, Snowflake and Zinnia.
- Deer Resistant Trees and Shrubs: Bottle Brush, Daphne, Douglas Fir, Euonymous, Hackberry, Holly, Jasmine, Juniper, Maple, Oleander, Limber Pine, Pinion Pine, Pomegranate, Rhododendron, Wild Lilac, Rockrose, Santolina, Scotch Broom and the Blue Spruce.
Scare Devices
- Put out strobe lights that rotate or flash
- Install motion lights or sensor lights that come on when deer approach
- String mylar tape that reflects and moves between trees
- Anchor helium balloons with monofilament line above ground
- Play a radio or recorded animal noises
- Hang aluminum pie pans that bang together
- Invest in an ultrasonic device that is intolerable to deer but inaudible to humans
- Set your sprinklers on motion detection, or rotate the timer so deer can’t learn the schedule
Chemical Repellents
- A variety of commercial repellents can make plants unpalatable or give off noxious odors. They are available at hardware stores or nurseries.
- Make your own
- Blend 4 eggs
- 2 ounces of Red Pepper Sauce
- 2 ounces of chopped garlic
- Enough Water to make a quart
- Strain
- Apply with a garden sprayer
- Makes enough to cover 16 bushes
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Opossums
What they do: Opossums are actually more beneficial than damaging to their environment. Opossums eat undesirable insects, snails and slugs while leaving most vegetation alone. Because of their long rat-like tail, and large mouth with sharp teeth, opossums are often mistaken for giant scary rats. Realize these marsupials are actually shy and non-confrontational. When approached, an opossum will often hiss and bare his 50 teeth. After that initial show, he’ll use this primary means of defense—playing dead until danger has passed.
What you should do:
- Male opossums spend their lives meandering from place to place to feed on what’s available. For that reason if you see an opossum in your yard simply wait awhile and he’ll likely be on his way.
- Discourage visits by picking up pet food, and securing pet doors.
- Even though opossums rarely raid gardens, chicken coops or garbage cans—make sure lids on trash cans are secure as well.
- If one does take up residence in a wood pile or under a porch, his nomadic lifestyle will likely move him out before long—but if you must get rid of him try spraying the area with a mixture of 8 ounces of dish detergent, and 8 ounces of castor oil in a gallon of water.
- Once everyone’s out seal off the area by using chicken wire buried below ground extending to the deck or patio.
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Mosquitoes
What they do: Mosquitoes cause a host of problems for humans and their pets. The tiny insects have a big bite-- transmitting diseases like West Nile Virus and Heartworm. Heartworm is preventable with a monthly tablet available from your veterinarian. Realize there is no vaccination against West Nile for people or companion animals so preventing the bites is the best way to prevent West Nile.
What you can do:
- To reduce mosquito populations, reduce standing water around your yard where mosquitoes might breed.
- Turn over plastic wading pools or wheelbarrows when not in use.
- Don’t allow birdbaths to stagnate.
- Don’t put your pets out, or take walks in the early evening or at dawn or dusk.
- If you are outdoors during those times wear long sleeved shirts and long pants—but bear in mind that mosquitoes can bite through thin cloth.
- Use insect repellent with Permethrin or DEET and always follow the application instructions.
- Clean roof gutters regularly.
- Stock ornamental pools with fish (they love mosquitoes!)
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Mountain Lions
What they do: Mountain Lions are solitary animals that prefer to stay away from other animals and people. Never the less, the capture of a male mountain lion in the city of Omaha in 2003 shows that they can indeed encroach on suburban areas. You are more likely to see these big cats in areas where there is abundant deer hunting and also abundant cover. Mountain lions are tan with black tipped tails and dark spots behind their ears. Males are larger than females at 100 to 150 pounds. Females are from 55 to 90 pounds. These big cats purr but don’t roar, emitting a low pitched squeal that attracts attention. They are most active dusk to dawn, and usually prefer to hole up during the day.
What you should do:
- If you see a mountain lion dial 911 or call Animal Control at 444-7800.
- Don’t approach the cat
- Leave the animal an escape route
- Try to appear bigger (and more daunting) by raising your arm
- Back away slowly—DO NOT TURN AND RUN--that will invite a chase
If a mountain lion has been sighted in your area
- Be aware when outside
- Keep an eye on all children
- Keep dogs on leash and close to you when outside
- Don’t let cats outside
- Bring in any food sources
- Don’t walk near cover areas
- Don’t take walks dusk to dawn
For more information on Mountain Lions link to Nebraska Game and Parks at http://www.ngpc.state.ne.us/
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